Visa Vacay to Guatemala

I'm back from my Visa Vacay to Guatemala. It was originally planned to go to Belize but we were informed of a new law change that allows you to renew your Visa from within the C-4 countries (Guatemala, Honduras, El Salvador, and Nicaragua). Before, you had to exit the Immigration Group every 90 days but now, one can just cross the border for 72 hours and you're all set.

Omoa, Honduras

The journey started in Omoa, which is a small, snail-paced village on the Northern Coast. It has a long curving bay and used to attract a heavy stream of backpackers on their way to Guatemala. But, because of their diminishing beach (due to controversial liquid-gas spheres planted in the coast line) it has become quiet. It was still a great place to break up the journey, especially since we stayed at an awesome hostel with free bikes!

You know how much I love to ride bikes! (Not. At. All.) I didn't fall off, for the record, but I did have trouble breaking. These were old bikes without hand-brakes and I came skidding to a stop more than once.

I hate bikes.

Guatemala/Honduras Border

A hop, skip, and a few bus rides away was the Honduras/Guatemalan border. The local city bus dropped us off and we had to walk to immigration. After getting stamped out of Honduras, we had to continue walking into Guatemala and be stamped in. We were in no-man's land (didn't exist) for a solid 15 minutes.

Rio Dulce, Guatemala

We made it in to Guatemala with little hassle, double checking with the immigration officer to make sure that we would, in fact, get our 90 days if we returned in 72 hours. He sent us on our merry way and we hopped yet another bus to Rio Dulce, a town on the east end of Lago de Izabal, the largest lake in Guatemala.

We didn't spend much time in Rio Dulce because I was overwhelmed with all of the traffic, noise, and stimulation. I opted for the quieter town of El Estor.

El Estor, Guatemala

El Estor is gorgeously situated overlooking Lago de Izabal to the Sierra de las Minas. It is rarely visited and therefore, a gem of culture and serenity. 

Half way between El Estor and Rio Dulce is Finca El Paraiso (Paradise Farm), which is a working ranch that they have opened to the public to explore. I walked to an incredible beautiful spot in the jungle where a wide, boiling hot waterfall drops into a deep, clear, cool pool.

We swam in the hot water and then ducked under an overhanging promontory and enjoyed the jungle-style sauna.

Steamy!

And then we were back on the bus. But not without a little cake to celebrate the big 2-6. 

The cake didn't compare to DQ's ice cream cake, a Pimentel birthday tradition.

El Remate, Guatemala

We took a bus all the way to El Remate (4 hours), which is an enchanting village on the shores of Lago de Peten Itza. It's very mellow with only two roads and everyone spends their time swimming in and watching the sun set over the lake. 

The hostel we stayed in was super cool. It is a little slice of hippy heaven with adobe huts, hammocks and Mayan artwork around a lush hillside. The restaurant was also amazing because it offered a large selection of freshly made vegetarian dishes. And it had a really spectacular view.

Swimming in Lago de Peten Itza was an interesting experience. When the sun shone on the water, it was a beautiful blue and sea-green color. The water was warm. There were lots of little fish. And it was picturesque. That is, until you put your feet down and found yourself ankle deep in white, sandy clay or mud or icky weirdness.

After doing some yoga on the pier, I watched the sun set over the mountains.

Holding myself up with my hands in full lotus. 

Crow

Zumba? I can't remember.

Tikal, Guatemala

Tikal can't even be described. It is indescribable. So I must use the words of Lonely Planet: "Towering pyramids poke above the jungle's green canopy to catch the sun. Howler monkeys swing noisily thought he branches of ancient trees as brightly colored parrot and toucans dart from perch to perch in a cacophony of squawks." 

Out of the jungle rise steep sided temples of more than 61m and as you walk from one building to another, you pass beneath dense rainforest and between uncovered and partially restored glimpses of the Mayan World.

Ok, this last part was all mine. Enjoy these amazing pictures and a little history added in!

Map of the 550-sq km National Park

Tikal is set on a low hill above the surrounding swampy ground, which might be why the Mayans settled here in 700 BC. 

Temple V, just east of the South Acropolis, is 58m high and was build around AD 700.

Temple IV, at 64m, is Tikal's highest building. It was completed in about 741, in the reign of King Moon Double Comb's son. That's me climbing.

View from the top.

Mangos. Breakfast of Champions.

It was estimated that about 100, 000 people lived in Tikal. The Great Plaza (view taken from atop Temple II)  was built for King Moon Double Comb around 734. The view of Temple I, AKA Temple of the Grand Jaguar, was closed off after two people tumbled to their deaths while climbing up.

Yoga in front of Temple of the Grand Jaguar

Nest of the Oro Pendulum bird.

Tikal was breathtaking. After spending a morning there and another night at our hippy shack, we hopped on the most uncomfortable shuttle to a bus terminal in Santa Elena. 

23 people were fit into a 12-person max shuttle.

From Santa Elena, we took an overnight bus to Guatemala City, arriving at 5am in the morning. We hopped on a Chicken Bus and headed to Antigua.

I thought I had been on Chicken Buses before but NEVER BEFORE had I experienced during the 45 minutes between Guatemala City and Antigua. It was a regular sized school bus with 10 rows of seats. There were 2.5 people sitting on each seat and then one standing in the middle of the row, totaling 7 per row. Take that times 10 rows plus an extra 12 people standing. Add the driver and his helper. 84 people cramped in bus, speeding on a windy, mountain road. I get why they call them Chicken Buses.

Never again.

Antigua, Guatemala

I had visited Antigua before when Scheffer came for New Years, and it was very much like I remembered it. A fantasyland that had been taken over by Scandanavians. The power lines run underground, building codes are adhered to, rubbish is collected, traffic diverted, and mysteriously no stray dogs. 

We hit up the market for a delicious, fresh lunch.

We weren't interested in staying too long because we had big plans. Big plans.

Lago Atitlan, Guatemala

Because we arrived at Lago Atitlan at dusk when it was hazy, I was in awe when I woke up to see the views.

Lago Atitlan is drmatic. The traditional values and customs of Guatemala's indigenous peoples are strongest in the highlands. The Mayan dialects are the first language and Spanish a distant second. The volcano-ridged lake is surrounded by small villages, each with its own character and vibe. The lake itself is 5100 ft above sea level and the surrounding volcanoes up to 10,000 ft.

We stayed in San Pedro la Laguna and although it is one of the cheapest lakeside villages, there is so much to do: drinking, buying, climbing, hiking, and hanging out. It was artsy with a lot of culture and great restaurants to eat.

Artwork on the walls.

For a day excursion, we rented a kayak ($1.25/hour) and paddled 10km across to San Marcos.

Having a raft guide along was to my advantage. I paddled very little and instead, directed my energy to throwing tantrums about being cold and wet.

San Marcos was, without a doubt, the prettiest of the lakeside villages. The flat shoreline has paths snaking through banana, coffee, and avocado trees. The town is a magnet for hippies-with-a-purpose who believe in the spiritual energy of the mountain-side. It would be an excellent place to learn yoga, practice meditation, get a massage and try a bunch of holistic therapies.

Aside from the greenery, there is a really high jump into the river. I, of course, didn't do it. But I know somebody else who did...

The food was to die for. Coming upon this little restaurant overlooking the water, I was sold when I looked at the menu.

Tempeh. Tofu. Falafel. Oh My!

I had to go splitzies because I wanted everything but could only, realistically, fit one thing in my stomach.

Falafel sandwich on homemade, whole wheat bread.
Tempeh burrito with homemade, whole wheat tortilla, brown rice, and peanut sauce. 

I'm overwhelmed because, as I devoured the tempeh and falafel, I seriously considered dropping my life plans and moving here to become a yogi and meditation instructor. 

Plucked out of my temporary dream in San Marcos, I was hoisted onto a shuttle (completely against my will!) and driven up the mountains. I waved "buh-bye" to beautiful Atitlan.

Yes, these are real pictures taken with a real camera from the back window of the shuttle bus.

Copan, Honduras

The last leg of our journey was broken up by a stop over in Copan, where I spent time previously with both Scheffer and Mom. It was 7 hours from the Lake to Copan, and another 7 from Copan to La Ceiba. It was necessary.

I didn't take any pictures in Copan, since I had been there before and you can see them here and here. 

I did, however, take just one - a priceless display of just how small Hondurans are. "One of these things is not like the others..."

It was an awesome vacation and I LOVE Guatemala. It is so different than Honduras and I definitely prefer it, no offense Hondo. The culture is so alive and I can't wait to go back... or move to San Marcos and eat Tempeh and Falafel... or just go back... to visit... I guess! :)

So, I'm back in the cuenca, fighting off a head-cold, avoiding buses, and preparing for Semana Santa (Easter Week), the most popular vacation week in all of Latin America. We expect tourists and locals to be surrounding the banks of the Cangrejal River and for their to be party after party to attend. I can't wait! I hear the music now... must go!